All last week we were climbing the walls waiting for Sunday, magic seaweed had predicted 4 stars, with 10 to 12 foot faces.
Sunday dawned cold and crisp, and off we trooped to our local surf spot.
To say it was big would be a bit of an understatement, the long shore drift was causing problems, meaning finding the perfect take off point. For the first hour I can safely say I got more beatings than I had waves.
During the session I caught the biggest steepest wave I’ve ever surfed, what an awesome feeling going flat out across the face of a wave that is almost vertical way, way out in front of you, a quick glance over the shoulder to confirm that yes it is tubing, question, do you stall to get deep in the tube or keep it flat out and avoid the kicking that will be dealt out if it closes out on you?
Laters,
D